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在日本，咖啡館同樣是憑藉着文化運動先在知識分子中流行起來，再普及到一般民衆中間。1888年4月13日，日本第一家咖啡館在東京上野西黑門町二番地開張(另一說，日本最早的咖啡館是1886年在東京日本橋開張的“洗愁亭”)，店主人鄭永慶還與中國有着一番特殊的淵源。他是鄭成功胞弟田川七左衛門後裔鄭永寧的養子，1859年出生在長崎，曾留學美國耶魯大學，精通中、英、法、日四國語言。作爲一位高級知識分子，鄭永慶追求的是把咖啡當做一種文人的精神加以推廣。他以當時日本文人能接受的茶館爲招牌，給自己的咖啡館取名“可否茶館”，在裏面賣西方人的咖啡。而“可否”本身的日文發音就與“咖啡”近似，後來甚至成爲日文中“咖啡”的某種固定譯法。作爲一種文化人率先喜歡上的飲料，咖啡在當時一下子擁有了很多文縐縐的譯名，除了“可否”，還有“可非”、“骨非”、“骨喜”、“加喜”等。也有人給其起名叫“唐茶”、“香湯”之類的。鄭永慶也順應此種潮流，在自家咖啡店裏放上了東洋西洋各種書籍報刊，甚至於文房四寶，總之力求把書香和咖啡香融於一體。當時日本的知識分子上咖啡館，同樣也有很多有趣的癖好，比如有些人會把藝伎帶入咖啡館伴讀，也有人就跟魯迅先生一樣，雖頻頻現身於咖啡館，卻從來不喝一杯咖啡。因爲在當時人看來，重要的是端坐在咖啡館的高背座椅前，桌上攤開着一本當時流行的文學刊物，喝咖啡也好綠茶也好甚至白開水也好，都已經無所謂了。</p>
<p>
鄭永慶的“可否茶館”終因格調太高，經營不善，連年赤字，在開張了4年後悄然倒閉。但“可否茶館”掀起的咖啡文化熱卻讓後繼者不斷湧現。1890年，東京淺草的“寶石咖啡店”正式開張。1909年，日本第一代巴西移民水野龍的“老聖保羅咖啡館”(Café Paulista)則從巴西拉到了免費的咖啡豆贊助，從而在日本全國都開設了連鎖店。東京的那一間分店創業於1911年，如今仍矗立在銀座八丁目博品館玩具店對面。當時轟動一時的這間咖啡店的廣告語是“黑如鬼，甜如戀，熱如地獄的燙咖啡”，且此處咖啡價廉物美，一杯才5分錢，再加5分錢，還可得一甜甜圈。所以吸引了很多當時的年輕文人和附近慶應大學的大學生在此駐足。據說當時“世界語普及會”的秋田雨雀，經常只買一杯咖啡，卻要佔10個座位，每週都在這裏舉行研究會，被譽爲摳門典範。</p>
<p>
剛開業時的“老聖保羅咖啡館”，二樓設有女賓部。1911年，由平冢雷鳥創立的女性雜誌《青鞜》就常在女賓部開編輯會議，一羣時髦的名女人聚在一起高談闊論，一坐就是一個下午。《青鞜》一名來自英國18世紀的“藍襪子派”(Bluestockings)女文人，藍襪子亦在後來成爲日本新女性象徵。雖然今天的“老聖保羅咖啡館”已經取消了女賓部，但是穿藍襪子的女客人仍然受到特別的尊貴待遇，咖啡錢可以免去。也曾聽聞，有一次列儂和小野洋子在銀座逗留，連續3個晚上都來此處點當店招牌的Paulista Old來喝。這種綜合咖啡從創業開始至今一直在菜單上，小野洋子可算是新新新女性，不知道當時她有沒有穿藍襪子去那裏呢。</p>
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